Himalayan Index Page

With back up from Mark in a 4×4 sat alongside Colin on a Nikon, we set off for the 1100-km ride from Assa through the Western Saharan interior to Dakhla via Smara and the Digtree (left), a fuel cache I had buried in 2015. I tried to get there alone on a WR250 in 2017 but when push came to turn left, it felt too risky.

The fuel may have been getting a bit ripe by now, but all was going well until I hit irreparable tyre troubles just 100km from the Digtree. I limped back 250km to Layounne, got fixed up and, now out of time before I meet my tour group, we settled for a leisurely drive north up the windswept Atlantic coast. Not for the first time, my Sahara plans slipped through my fingers.

Hooning about on a clay pan.

The century-old Aéropostale base at Cape Juby (Tarfaya).

Inside the base.

Cap Juby in its heyday.

Tojo wheels + jerries – the only windbreaks for miles.

Watchtower on a berm just 50km from the Mauritanian border.

Hot steam and rubber. Cleaning out the Slime.

‘Moto – Landrover – Layounne?’ I point to each and try and persuade a Saharawi to transport my bike to the coast.

Churned up, sandy gorge at MW6 KM246. The Himalayan meets it’s limit.

They like the word Sahara out here.

Crossroads where MW6 joins MW7. Came from the left on the WR in 2017.

Khnifiss Bird Lagoon.

Topping up for the day. A can will do me at least 500km.

Desert dawn near Gueltat Zemmour.

A Dakar Rally mound. Pushed up every kilometre or so as landmarks right along our route to the Digtree and beyond.

Most of the riding is easy, as above. But it only takes one lapse in concentration.

Removing the punctured Tubliss core in Layounne.

Colourful beetle.

Ex-Dakar track.

The mouth of the Draa which rises near Ouarzazate in the High Atlas, but very rarely flows in its entirety the 1000-odd km to the ocean.

Out of Tiznit we took an interesting track along the Oued Assaka to Fort Bou Serif ruins for a spot of lunch and some filming.