2026-7: the Golden Age of Real World Travel Bikes

After the last year or so, and on top of what was announced at this week’s EICMA show in Italy, could we be in a Golden Age of Travel Bikes. Bikes that actually make practical, long-range, all-terrain overlanders, not 150-hp flagships you can’t pick up without a winch. Bit of a rush job this, as I’m heading out for a fortnight of diesel and desert dust. I’m sure I’ve missed a few so come back for an update later in November.

CFMoto 550MT-X
CFMoto look to be the best iof the Chinese bikes and there was nothing badly wrong with the best-selling 450MT I ran for a year, including the power. If anything the economy was a bit poor, so I’m not fully convinced by the 550 MT-X version (there’s also a non X road model with a 19″ front). If anything, they should have gone the other way, trying to strip down the 450’s mass and bulk, but weight may indeed have dropped a bit.

Royal Enfield 750 Himalayan
It was bound to happen and here it is, a 230-kilo, retro styled, low saddled touring plodder. I was a bit disappointed by the 650 Interceptor I tried years ago. This would suit me better, but of course on the dirt it’ll be a tank when things turn rough, as they do. £7000 in the UK.

BMW F450GS
Another mini-GS, only it looks a lot better all round than the also Indian built 310GS I rode for years in Morocco. A buzzy 420cc twin with 6 gears but with a serious attempt to keep weight under 180 kilos with a brimmed 14-litre tank. Wheels are tubeless but the front is a 19-er; watch out for a 21-inch F450 Adventure in a year or so. From just under £7000 in the UK. Looks great, if nothing else.

Yamaha XT 400 ‘Tenerette’
How long have we been waiting for a mini-Tenere? I’d day since the 1980s. Well here it is in concept form. You wonder what Yamaha are waiting for, approval? It’s got to be a new engine, no? The highly strung 450 YZ/WR/F race engines won’t be suited to a trail bike any more than the short-lived Honda CRF450L was. In that case there’ll will be a spread of models: Scrambler, Super Moto, Sport and so on, like Triumph with its 400s.

KTM 690 Rally
We all miss the classic 640 Adventure= of 20 years ago (well, those who didn’t ride it). Finally KTM have rallyfied the 690 with a 20-litre fuel capacity and a screenlette. Expect about 175 kilos tanked up, a seat height fit for nose bleeds and a dizzying £11,500. Ducati may have tried, but there is still nothing like the do-it-all 690 motor.

Kawasaki KLE 500
At only six grand in the UK – a grand less than the proven NX500 – the new KLE P-twin has six speeds and an 18-litre tank with a 21-inch front and is 194kg wet, about the same as the tubeless, cast 19-er Honda. I’m not fully convinced by the KLE, but in the US where the KLR big single was their ‘Tenere’, they seem to be more excited by it.

Suzuki DRZ4S
In the US the price dropped $1000 for 2027, but in the UK it’s still a ridiculous £8k so they’ve doubtless tons left over. Shame, as the word is underneath it’s a great trail bike and at least it’s here, unlike Yamaha’s T4.

Yamaha RW 350
Yamaha have stuck the creamy CP2 T7 engine in an RW 700 dirt scooter to go up against Honda’s pricey X-ADV, and even thought I didn’t gel with the hefty, DCT X as a trail bike, I’m partial to a Yamaha.
So I wonder how bad could the 327cc single, CVT gearbox RW 350 be for what I do? These dirt scoots come in heavy but they’re also low and automatic, plus the vid below shows proper off road standing on the RW’s pegs, as well as FF boards. Wet it’s 192 kilos they say and the wheels are small and tubeless, like the X. And that saddle! Riders are not so keen on the similar X-ADV 350 on the dirt so bring it on, I say. If it’s a turkey, I’ll eat it.

KTM 390 Adventure X and KTM 390 Adventure R
R is tubed, tall and 15% costlier, both have 14 litre tanks and weigh around 176kg. Tke your pick with more here.

MODELAdventure SW
(2024)
Adventure
(2024)
Adventure X
(2025)
Adventure R
(2025)
Enduro R
(2025)
Weight170kg173176176165
Tank14.5 litres14.514149
Seat855mm855825870890
Wheels17/1917/19 cast TL17/19 cast TL18/2118/21
Suspension170/177mm170/177200/200230/230230/230
Price UK£5600£5200£5400£6100£5700

Preview: 2026 Morini 450 Alltrhike (Vettore)

When I ‘started out on my motorcycle journey’ in the 1970s, Morini’s red and black, mag-wheeled, 3½ v-twin (right) was one of the coolest bikes no one rode. A mini Ducati 900SS for the price of a 750 Bonneville which many more of us actually bought. I haven’t seen a Morini since those days, but like so many classics, the ‘Fre’n’arf’ is supposed to be back one of these days, looks even better and probably runs a lot better too.

Chinese owned and manufactured since 2018, but designed and developed in Milan, out already and soon in the UK is Morini’s entry into the optimal 450cc travel bike segment, the Alltrhike 450. What a crippling neologism that looks like a typo or is more suited to a pair of trail shoes. In the US they’re calling it Vettore. Better. Why not just call it X-Cape 450, or even X-Cape 4½ to go with the X-Cape 700 and 1200 twins? In the UK the ‘All-Trike’ will cost just just £5300 for the up-spec, all-heated version.

Underneath, it’s a CF Moto 450MT
Look closely and you’ll see it’s actually based on the CF Moto 450 MT (left) which I ran from new a couple of years ago and liked very much. The wheels are the same spoked tubeless (overlooked in official specs). The 6-speed, 270° CF Moto motor is the same – another big plus, especially if they’ve ironed out the CF’s slightly annoying low-speed fuelling glitch. I’d also guess the frame, pipe, JJ brakes and KYB suspension are the same too. With such proven tech and engineering, that’s all a good thing which will help the Morini hit the ground in third.
I got a little excited when I saw the weight of 170kg listed and then parroted around. Digging deeper reveals a more realistic 190kg dry. By the time you brim the 18.5-litre tank, that’ll be 204kg wet, 7kg more than my old CB500X, and not far off an XT700. I wish CF or Morini or anyone had been bold to design a pannier tank, like the KTM 790/890. Nearly 20 litres is a lot of weight up high.

Morini Alltrhike / Vettore 450 vs CF Moto 450MT Ibex

Slimmer tank area, despite being larger volume
Snatchy low-speed fuelling sorted?
Rear seat drops down to make a smoothish bench seat
Centre stand
Longer service intervals
Lots of heating
Phone-mirrored Carbit Ride nav on display
Cheaper than CF Moto in UK
Same proven engine and TL wheels
Three-way adjustable handlebar and even foot pegs

Alltrhike is not a catchy name
Heavier than the already top-heavy CF
Screen pivots forward and back, not up and down
Not bad looking but CF Moto looks better

Based on nothing more than online data, below is a comparison table for the Morini Alltrhike / Vettore, CF Moto 450 and the nearly here BMW F450GS. The BMW may end up a lot more than even the base £7000, but if the wet weight of 178kg including 14 litres is to be believed, that’s a ~full jerrican less than the Chinese 450s. And you can be sure in a year there’ll be a F450GS Adventure with a 21-inch front, bigger tank and more suspension travel.

Morini • CF Moto • BMW • Honda
Morini Alltrhike 450CF Moto 450 (Ibex)BMW F450GS 420ccHonda NX500
471cc, E-Clutch 2026
Price new UK£5300£5700£7000£7000
Dry/wet weight190/204kg183/195kg *verified167/178kg187/199kg
Seat height33″/840mm adj32.5″/825mm *adj33″/840mm adj32.7″/830mm adj
Tank volume18.5L17.5L *14L17.5L
Engine / powerP-twin 270° 44hpSameP-twin 135° 48hpP-twin 180° 47hp
Service intervals6000km4500km10,000km12,800km
Pairable navYesNoYes?Yes
Adj seat and screenYesYesOption?No
ConnectivityUSBUSB and USB-CUSB-COption
Centre standYesOptionOption?Option
Wheels18/21 spoked tubelessSame17/19 cast tubeless17/19 cast tubeless
SuspensionUSD KYB 41mm/ 208mm, fully adj
Rear KYB 190mm, preload and rebound
SameFully adj, USD 43mm and rear. 180mm F&RUSD 41mm, shock preload only. 133/119mm F&R
BrakesDisc F&R (rear ABS switchable)SameBrembo / ByBre Disc F&R with ABSDual front discs ABS


Serow 250: fitting £90 fork emulators

Serow Index Page

When I think back to my early travels, the idea of doing anything more than just jacking up the shock to carry the load never occurred to me. With suspension, it has to be pretty terrible for you to notice, and for that to happen – or for good suspension to show it’s worth – you need to be either riding pretty fast, or hammering over rough terrain. If you don’t do much of either or don’t have up to a grand to spare (or have good, fully adjustable forks) it’s not worth it. But for under £100 it is possible to improve a non-adjustable fork’s damping action. And my Serow could do with some of that.

Can’t be bothered to read another word, but still curious? Watch the 12-min vid at the bottom

On our H.A.T recce in Morocco last November (left), right off the bat the Serow’s front end was all over the place on stony climbs. Notably worse than other bikes I’d ridden lately. It never bottomed out and the back end wasn’t sagging, so I presumed it was a combination of too stiff front tyre and negligible damping, that inscrutable function which controls spring rebound.
‘Spend a grand plus taxes on a full, US-imported Cogent front and rear Serow set up‘ they said. ‘Night and day or your money back!’ Cogent also do a fork kit with drop in emulator valves, replacement springs plus oil for around $400. I didn’t need a new spring or oil, only valves, just to end up with better, but still unadjustable forks. Next stop were Race Tech Gold Valves for $230 (FEGV 3311). Still quite a lot with import tax and all, and unlike Cogent, you need to drill extra holes in your damper rods (a lot of added work). You’ll find much online chat about the pros and cons of Cogent vs Race Tech emulators. Like here.
Long story short, widely sold in the UK YSS also do a range of emulator valves for just 90 quid (below). They’re not gold, and I’d need to drill the rods but as I needed a new fork seal anyway, it seemed worth a shot to DIY, even though I’d never taken forks apart before.

I’d heard of emulators but wasn’t really sure what they were. Turns out they’re easily fitted valves which enable conventional, archaic damper rod forks to ’emulate’ supposedly superior cartridge forks (Cart-what? For another time).
The valve (above left) is a preload adjustable spring loaded plunger which sits between the fork’s fixed damper rod and the spring (right). As forks compress, oil is pushed through the valve, opening the sprung valve which is otherwise closed. Oil flows through progressively relative to force, compared to static conventional damping rods with just a couple of drilled holes. The vid below made similar Race Tech installation on an XT500 look relatively easy. If only.
You need a set matching the internal diameter of your fork tube. For a Serow it wasn’t possible to find that info online, and guessing from the fork tube outer ø is sketchy (I now know…). The best way to verify your fork tube’s internal ø is to undo a fork cap, lift out the spacer/spring, and measure ID with some verniers. On the Serow fork ID was ~30mm – not my 31mm estimate. The 31s got sent back for exchange but never made it. But by chance I found some next-size-down YSS 29s used on ebay for half price. Weeks passed by for all these fascinating events to work themselves out.

If it was only as easy as the slick vid below with a well lit and superbly equipped workshop and dinky music tinkling in the background. Whip out the springs, tip out the effortlessly unscrewed rod, pop in the new valves and reverse the rest before damping progressively into the sunset. My damper rods didn’t slip out nicely (and wouldn’t have easily dropped back in, either) so the entire fork leg needed to be disassembled.
Unless using drop-in Cogent valves, you need to get your hands on the damper rod because additional holes must be drilled for oil to pass unfettered up to the new emulator valve. A hex bolt at the base of the fork secures the damper rod inside the lower fork. They’re notoriously tricky to remove because it’s like trying to undo a bolt from an unseen uncaptive nut without any means of restraining the nut.

More tools to buy. Sigh…

‘Get a rattle gun’ I was advised (left; pneumatic impact driver), to ‘shock’ the allen bolt from the damper rod to which it’s been seized for the last 15 years.
I have an 80-bar compressor tank and found a 25 quid rattler on ebay – ker-ching. But air gun shock therapy wasn’t working. The rod was spinning inside – as you’d expect. A ha, I thought, I will ram a whittled stick in the other end to stop the rod spinning, lock it off with some Moles (below left), then apply rattle. That worked – eventually, but on reassembly it didn’t, so I deployed the ‘broom trick’ I’d seen mentioned online. Same idea: slide it down the fork tube to press against the damper rod top, then pull the trigger. Long arms or step ladder needed. All this seemed a bit less faff than entirely reassembling the fork (as suggested in the vid) to add tension to the rod for removal/refitting.

Much faffing later (have I mentioned faffing yet?) I had the forks in bits by which time I realised I could have fitted the new fork seal myself, not at the LBS.

Emulator ringed alongside damper rod prior to drilling. Fork spring spacer up top

To maintain your fork spring effective length & vpreload (FSEL&P) and not void your insurance, you need to saw off the effective height of the valve’s body – about an inch – from the spacer tubes so it all fits back together again (below). A fairly easy job even I’d find hard to mess up.

Next job was drilling several extra flow holes in the damper rods which normally have just a couple near the bottom. Like much of the Serow, this is 1970s technology, maybe older, but I suppose it worked well enough. Additional holes allow the oil to move up to the sprung emulator valve which controls the variable flow. Another thing I learned: on Serow forks the drilled rods pass through a close-fitting nylon collar at some stage of reassembly, so any protruding burrs left over from the drilling will lock the fork action. Grind the rods smooth to slide through the collar smoothly, then clean off any remaining swarf with solvent.
By now Christmas had come and gone, so had New Year and there were already chocolate eggs in the shops and daffs blooming. But I was getting close and the forks now slid smoothy in and out, like they should. I did the ‘broom trick’ as mentioned above to tighten the rods back onto the fork leg with the air gun, and was so amazed it worked first time, I stopped right there and took the rest of the day off before another cock up kicked me in the nuts.

“Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.” to quote M Haynes, and amazingly, only one bolt had escaped in the weeks it took to complete a one-day task. But let’s snatch a positive from this elongated fiasco (above ;-): I’d leaned all about damper rod fork internals. Having avoided fork disassembly all these decades, I can now see they’re not so complicated, at least old-style RWU forks. USDs, who knows, but it’s said that, apart from fork seal weepage, they’re more complicated inside but are often higher spec and have adjustment, so emulation maybe not needed.
Amazingly, a simple circlip appears to hold the two parts of a leg together. Undo that and whack the two sections apart like a Christmas cracker to get to the seal or damper rod. Along with rod loosening, refitting a seal without damage and without the correct slide tool is probably the hardest job.
Deciding on fork oil weight and volume/height is another opportunity to tie yourself in knots of self doubt. I found several values online for the ‘XT250’ until I realised just measure the volume of watery, brown swill which poured out of the non-leaky leg – 350cc. On reassembly I poured in just 300cc of fresh 10W, thinking it’d be easier to add more if something felt very off, rather than try and suck some out. The damper and emulator valve is surely be submerged in the oil full time. I think oil volume is more to do with how much air remains in the forks and it’s effect on compression. Less air = more compression.

By the time I reached this climactic peak of enlightenment, the Serow’s previous owner got in touch, enquiring whether I knew anyone with a Serow Touring for sale. Someone must have told her I was a serial bike quickshifter! With Morocco snowed out and me elsewhere this winter, a deal was made and a date was set. I topped up the leaky rear tubeless tyre and took the Serow out for one last ride along Purbeck’s flooded lanes.
The forks felt the same – fine on normal roads, as before. No great surprise. I’d need to find a rocky climb to see if the front responded any better, but right now what few local lanes I knew around here where probably knee-deep in mud or carpets of rotting leaf sludge. On these tyres? I don’t think so.

So I puttered merrily around the Purbeck Hills I usually cycle in the summer and tried to think what could replace the agreeable Serow. As I did so, the sweet aroma of mud thrown up onto the hot pipe took me right back to my earliest days dicking about on Surrey wastelands with ratty trail bikes (left).
What trail bike was as light, low saddled, semi-tubeless, economical, started on the button and came with racks and a screen? Probably my CRF300L a couple of bikes back, but look at the huge amount of spending and work it required to reach that stage. I guess that’s why these old Serows hold their value.

My 3 Innovations for 2026

Like many two-wheel travellers, I enjoy coming up with creative ways of doing things or adapting gear to suit my specific riding needs. Over the last year I had what I thought were noteworthy innovations. There were a couple more, but clearly they did not survive the memory test.

Pillion Peg Panniers
People ask: Where should panniers be positioned? ‘As Low and Forward as Possible’ (AL&FAP) comes the cry, because an all-terrain travel bike is more stable and responds more predictably when the loaded mass is centralised, especially when off road. I would also add ‘As Narrow’ to the acronym, but in the end we need the volume.

Behold the pillion peg mounting

The AL&FAP optimum can be hard to achieve given that most off-the-shelf racks are set too far back and panniers – soft or hard – are usually box shaped. (this combination is probably designed to accommodate pillions).
The elephant on the subframe are the pillion pegs: a mounting point as strong as any rack. Support your mass on them (while ensuring room for paddling) achieves the AL&FAP ideal.
I first experimented with this idea riding a massively heavy Africa Twin to the Mauritanian border during Covid, refined it on my 450MT in 2024, and stumbled on the best solution so far adapting Mosko Moto’s Alpine R60s on my skimpy Serow. The Alpine’s ‘sock’ shape is perhaps coincidentally ideal for the application of AL&FAP.
Click the links for more.

Seat pad inserts for riding pants
Sore arses on narrow trail bike seats; What. Is. New? Apart from changing or reupholstering the seat (a bit of a black art, imo), there are all sort sorts of seat pad solutions: DIY neoprene foam slabs which worked well on my Himalayan 411, air cushions, sheep skins, ibuprofen, mesh seat covers,

I’ve tried them all but one problem is they increase the seat height which – 411 excepted – may not be what you want, especially on a CRF300L. Then I moved the padding from the bike’s seat to my own seat with some Moto Skiveez padded pants, similar to cycling pants but not quite as close fitting. They worked well on the CRF, extending the comfort range, but as some reviewers have noted, it’s a bit like wearing a filled nappy, plus makes having an urgent roadside slash a bit awkward. Another thing I found was forgetting to put them on each morning until, just as I’m clamping up the boots I think scheisse, I need to go back three spaces and pull on my riding nappies or I’ll regret it in a few hours.
With riding pants we have knee armour pockets or velcro, and even hip padding. Why not add something similar but obviously softer to the seat of the pants. No Skiveez needed which means no additional washing, dozy forgetfulness or desperate roadside fumbling – and no elevated seat heights. Slip on your riding trousers or over-trousers with the optional butt pads fitted and ride off into the sunrise.

If like me you prefer to wear normal cargo trousers like above, plus over trousers when needed, sewn-in velcro patches for quick removal won’t spoil your butt line when off the bike. On the bike attach the foam pads and hit the road.

Dynamically adjustable seat height
I probably ride my MTB more than motos in the UK, and this is another pushbike derived idea that’s a bit left field. It gets its own post. Click this.

Quick look: Rhinowalk 48L Saddle Bags

IN A LINE
Inexpensive basic 500D PVC throwovers with more straps than the gimp in Pulp Fiction.

WHERE TESTED
Nowhere really.

COST & WEIGHT
£110 unused off ebay (from £140 new). 2900g est.

WHAT THEY SAY (shortened)
✔ EXCELLENT WATERPROOF: The motorcycle saddle bag is made of 500D PVC tarpaulin material, which is 100% waterproof and the most stand wear and tear motorcycle material. The roll-up design provides waterproof guarantee while supporting quick opening and closing.
✔ LARGE CAPACITY FOR DAILY NEEDS: Waterproof motorcycle bag is specially designed for those who like to travel by motorcycle, outdoor adventure. 2 side pockets with a total of 24L large capacity to meet your daily needs.
✔ STAND WEAR AND TEAR MATERIAL: Different from ordinary waterproof material, we use PVC tarpaulin as motorcycle bag shell material, which is stand wear and tear and suitable for daily use. High-density PVC resists dust and is easy to clean.

  • Cheap
  • Light
  • Simple
  • Loads of long strapping
  • Can mount low and forward with a rack
  • Inner padding may be OK without a rack
  • 500D PVC is not particularly thick
  • May not survive heavy loads off road
  • Understraps for more external gear get in the way
  • Despite rackless claim, best with a rack in this XL size

REVIEW
Rackless side bags from the well-known soft luggage manufacturers have been a thing for years. It will vary from bike to bike, but without a rack they have to be mounted high, almost on the side of the seat (right), to stop them swinging about into the wheel or bouncing on the pipe.
For better handling on the trail, low and forward is the way I like to do it, like the Kriega OS18 resting on the pillion footpeg on last year’s 450MT. Sadly this rackless innovation went unnoticed in the biking world.

Low and forward

My Serow Touring came stock with light side racks (left). They’re a bit far back (like so many racks) but are just the job to support throwovers which would otherwise swing into the wheel or melt on the pipe. Without a rack you’d need to hang them high on the side of the seat to avoid swinging, but that means a higher mass; less good for handling.
I was eyeing up these Rhinos for a while and got a barely used XL set on ebay, at 24L a side. The rationale being I won’t need any other bags bar a tank bag (though I admit, many bags or pockets makes quick day-access easier). As one reviewer observed, they’re like a pair of giant socks, the upper part rolling down to clip down the sides and over the top

Lashing on was dead easy once you get your head round the mass of long straps. (Better too long than too short.) Over the seat, I removed the unnecessary padding sleeves and cinched them up through a loop in my tail rack with cam and clip plastic buckles I’ve not seen before. At the lower ‘toe’ end, another ridiculously long strap loops through the pillion peg mount, or is long enough to go round the main frame to connect back to a metal cam lock buckle.
As said, at the back my over-seat straps went through the tail rack to stop them sliding forward. But there’s another metal buckle at the ‘back ‘heel’ of each bag to do the same job. Use a loose strap supplied to cross and loop over the tail rack (or whatever you got) from one rear bag’s rear cam buckle to the other.
Instead, I used a knotted offcut from the front strap to lash this rear point to my rack to better support it all Once bouncing loaded up along the trail, the more weight you can take off the over-seat straps the better.

External lashing. Hmm

There are also some long straps for lashing more gear on the outside under the bags, like the tripod shown right. But unsupported, I can’t see anything staying there for long (or staying clean) on the trail. Molle webbing would be better, or a pocket. Or just lash on top where it’ll stay put.

The honeycomb padding on the inner surface (left) claims to resist 160°C and looks OK but once splattered with gritty mud will rub on your plastics if you’ve no rack. On the trail I was not expecting to carry more than 10kg in each bag which ought to make them last. But in the end Mosko Moto sent me some of their new Alpine R60s to try so I went with them and resold the Rhinos.