Tag Archives: high atlas traverse

Serow Touring XT250 1000 mile review

Serow index page

tik

• Economy: often over 100mpg so 300km range from the 9.3-litre tank
• 19hp was never really an issue, even at 11,000′ (when it became 12hp)
• Looks good
• As light as you’ll get for a regular trail bike
• Windscreen frame enabled near eye-level Garmin mounting which made a difference
• Came well equipped with racking and TL rear wheel
• Seat is low
• Starts and fuels with no fuss whatsoever
• No vibration through bars or pegs
Mosko bags did the job unobtrusively

cros

• Something was wrong with the front end
• I’m too big for this bike and couldn’t stand comfortably (common issue)
• Seat (or pants) needs added padding
• Some days the TL rear tyre lost air, some it didn’t
• Ultra basic and barely legible LCD display
• Bigger footpegs needed a longer shifter with big boots/feet
• Front TL Kenda Big Block too stiff for this light bike

Review
On reflection, I was a bit slack preparing my Serow. It ticked so many boxes and was a ‘XT’ after all, so I assumed it would do the job, like most XTs do. But after 10 days on the High Atlas Traverse (H.A.T) I can see how it could be improved for off roading.
Ascending the first dirt track – one I’ve done many times on many bikes – I could feel something was wrong. The front end flapped around rather than tracked straight like the Him 450 I last rode. It took a while to work out it was probably a combination of too stiff Kenda TL tyre at too high psi, plus probably what’s left of decade old fork oil.

They say 250 Serow forks in particular are not so hot, but I was fooled by them being firm (they never bottomed out). They also say a $400 Cogent spring, oil and valve kit fixes that and – as a Serow owner I know will affirm – add their $800 shock and you’re sorted.

I now see RaceTech (also in the US) sell just the cartridge emulating valves (left) for around $230 + all the usuals, while in the UK Brooks sell similar Thai YSS valves for £84. I’ve read of these emulators without actually understanding exactly how they work but after watching this RT installation vid, I get it. Seeing as the forks are apart for a new seal and gaiter, I may give the YSS valves a shot.
Back in Morocco, even once the front tyre was dropped to 19psi, a lot of energy was spent keeping this thing on line on the steep, loose climbs of the H.A.T. Luckily, minimal weight and the easy-going motor producing its own ‘traction control’ made this possible. And elsewhere the Serow was fine.
I have to say the explanation still sounds a bit thin. I’m sure I’ve ridden ill-damped and poorly tyred bikes before, but something – maybe rearward weight distribution or my weight overall? – was off, though I was nowhere near the 160kg max payload stated in the manual. I see one bloke fitted an ebay steering damper to his Serow. They do say pricey off-road dampers like the Scott are enhancements rather than there to disguise unstable steering. I dismissed the notion that the weight of the hefty front rack and screen were an issue (that wrapped bundle is only a 500g bike cover, fyi). Really, it’s got to be a grand of Cogent springing that transforms the Serow – as did a grand’s worth on the CRF 300L.

Sorted, carb’d TTR350 was dynamically loads better but ‘only’ did 75mpg, and you can see how much taller it is

Still, it’s amazing how adequate 19hp turned out to be – especially when vanned all the way down to KM Zero! Even up in the H.A.T Death Zone where only hardy microbes survive, the XT was never left wanting, even if it couldn’t pull beyond first at 10,000′. All motors lose power at altitude, but I like to think it’s the reliably even fuel injection which makes the scant power effective.
This lowly output must have contributed to economy of up to 108mpg or over 38kpl. An all-time record for me. The worst was about 88/31 and the average was 98/34.7, though exact figures probably got muddied by village fuel top-ups.

Dropping outriggers and getting on – no problemo

The soft, low-down power meant the gearing didn’t feel under any strain, though 1st to 2nd had a bit of a gap and a 6th would have been nice. The narrow rear Anakee Wild was well matched for the pace and load and probably helped keep the mpg in three figures.

Near identical and new non-Euro XT250s are easily rented in Morocco, but have tubes all round.

Having ridden ABS for years, I think my once finely honed braking finesse has suffered. Part of the problem was I was so squashed up that, unless sitting right back and upsetting the ride balance even more, my feet point down so that accurately modulating the rear brake was more than my Sidi clad ankles could do. Well, that’s my excuse. Were the seat a lot taller the knee angle would open up and go back and the feet would level off. And though I rarely stand, when you need to you must, but even with the risers fitted the stoop was not sustainable. Higher bars would need longer cables – a faff. And along with the stoop the suspension probably didn’t inspire confidence to stand up and attack (that and a very sore leg from a needless lowside).

Another ergo problem I’ve never had before was caused by fitting bigger pegs for better standing support. It reduces the peg to shifter space (below) which, with brick-like Sidi Adventures, makes up-shifting awkward. But it seems I’m not the first to notice this and adjustable shifters are available (below right). My oh my it’s amazing what you learn after a few full days on the trail!

As noted on previous AMH project bikes, stock suspension is commonly only adequate and technically dead simple to improve, compared to a motor. But I think I prefer the feel of a low-comp but injected air-cooled engine over a CRF, just like I preferred the CRF over the highly strung WR250R. The Serow has a mellow donkey feel which suits my slow/remote exploring prefs these days.

Serow 19hp and 140kg; TTR350 29hp and the same; KTM 390 170kg and 44hp.

Shaky front end apart, the Serow fulfilled its intended purpose: an easy bike to manage the unknown trails of the H.A.T. It started on the button, fuelled cleanly and never missed a beat, like all good Yams. In places on the H.A.T, last year’s 450MT would have too much to handle. But while it could be easily improved, the Serow’s still a bit small for me.

Quo Vadis
Quo what? A KTM 490 X or R perhaps? or I wonder if I should take another spin on a Himalayan 450, a bike I expected to like but didn’t. It’s certainly my size and has great range, but manages to clock in with nearly 50% more weight. Not much you can do about that and it does take it out of you over a day on the piste (improved suspension might ease the beating). I may try and rent one again. At least by this time the stock CEAT tyres ought to have been replaced.

A more stupid idea is adapting Honda’s air-cooled and injected GB350S (above left) into a travel bike. Everyone seems to love this 21-hp, Indian-built Honda ‘Bullet’. But I can guaran-damn-tee, I won’t be able to stand up on that without apehangers. And while supposedly as economical as the Serow, it weighs 178kg. I’ve never actually seen one; maybe it’s also too small for me.
That motor’s been around for years but when hiding behind retro styling you can get away with a low output. So not much chance of them spinning off a soft Adv, like Triumph have done with the more highly strung Scrambler 400XC (above right). The XC is also tubeless but is only 10kg lighter than a Him 450, won’t have anywhere near the economy or range and costs nearly double the GB. Both are tubeless. How lucky we are to have all these choices.

A high elevation, low-speed blur…

Tested: Mosko Moto Alpine R60 Rackless review

See also
Soft Baggage 2026
Serow Index page

Everything in two, well positioned big bags

In a line
Mounted separately and semi-permanently to a light rack and without rear duffle – not as Mosko intended – but was exactly what I wanted.

Price and verified weights
Bags £476.
Right side 1350g; left 1530g; hardware 130g, Duffle 650g. Total: 3.7kg/8.1lbs
Gnoblin q/d mount (optional; £39) 182g.
As mounted (no duffle or Gnoblin): 2.5kg

  • Mounts low and forward, ideal shape for optimal load distribution
  • Well put together and clever design elements
  • Light: my adapted set-up just 2.5kg
  • Looks more than 22 litres per side
  • The outward flex of the CURV board (not used) limits pressure on sidepanels
  • With CURV board sits high on some bikes
  • If you want the q/d element make sure the CURV board suits your bike
  • OTT strap hard to cinch down with changing bag volumes

Alpine R60s supplied free by Mosko for testing and review

What they say
The Alpine 60L Rackless is Mosko Moto’s lightest weight dual sport and ADV luggage setup with the capacity for multi-day trips. Designed for riders who seek minimalist, lightweight luggage, it provides the three-bag organization and packing system of a traditional pannier setup (two side panniers and a rear duffle) in a lightweight, waterproof, abrasion-resistant ripstop nylon rackless bag. Featuring our super durable CURV® chassis, the universally-mounting A60 can be easily swapped between multiple bikes, and can be packed and checked for fly-to-ride adventures.

Alpine Style
For this autumn’s recce of the High Atlas Traverse I wanted to try something different. Though never a fan of the one-piece Giant Loop Coyotes and the like, I’ve been interested in separate throwover side-bags which can manage without a full racktangle™ (right). I also like the idea of tough drybags sleeved in a holster, as on Mosko’s Rackless 40 and 80, although these look a bit heavy and over-designed for my little Yam 250 on this trip.
You should make something in between the 40 and 80, and simpler‘, I suggested to Roel as Mosko EU.
Give it a month or two and I’ll have our new Alpine 60L to show you‘, he replied.

A week before wheels-up and Mosko’s Alpine R60 arrive in Woodland Green and Black. Two sidebags of 22 litres (but look bigger), plus a 15-litre top duffle which I didn’t plan to use. Each bag comes mounted on a bendy, two-piece U-shaped composite CURV® backplate which you bolt together with supplied hardware. That straps to the bike at the pillion pegs or rear downtube, to be tensioned from the tail rack, either with an optional and neat peg called a Gnoblin (below), or just a strap or two. Result: a quickly detachable 3-point fitting using the backplate to part-stabilise the load. Mosko are pitching the Alpine 60s at the harder-riding, ‘light-is-right’, crowd, but anyone who appreciates a minimalist, light throwover that’s easily removable will like the R60.

The clever thing about the composite CURV® plate to which each bag is semi-permanently buckled, is that the flexible board naturally bows outwards to resist pressing on the sides of the bike causing rubbing; a quasi-rack. A replaceable, full-length, 8-mil EVA foam pad is velcro’d to the plate. The bags come securely anchor-buckled to the plate which is velcro’d to the EVA pad. To avoid pipeburn use the Mosko heatshield, at only £22 it’s cheaper and neater than a C-channel off-cut and clips.
Set up this way, removing the whole rig is a 10-second job (discounting the duffle), while secure mounting in the morning might take as long as 30 seconds, so make sure to set the alarm. I’ll take q/d soft bags if they have a bombproof and foolproof attachment system which can be used daily without thinking too much. Otherwise, most nights in Morocco I leave partly loaded bags on the securely parked bike and bring what I need into the room.

Too far back as usual… sigh

My Serow Touring came stock with an old-school alloy tube tailrack and light-gauge steel side frames (left) which are way too far back as usual, but otherwise ideal for stabilising the low weights I typically carry in Morocco, lodging each night, as I do. Out of the box I could see issues fitting the Alpine 60s onto my racking, but could also see a solution.

Looking at the vid above. Either those bags are full to overflowing, or the stiffness of the flexible backplate means they sit high on that Kove, even without the duffle which might be hidden from view.
The A60 is a rackless system” says our man Coleman at 0:52, but at that point you can see the Kove has been fitted with a CNC FishRacing integrated full rack system (right), or the 25-quid Ali-X knock-off. It’s much wider than my Serow set up which may explain why the bags sit so high. I’m not a fan of this current, easily cut (aka: cheap) CNC trend, when hand-formed and braised tubing uses less metal for half the weight (rant ends ;-).
As said the R60 baggage appears to sit high on the racked Kove, but it also does in the Mosko video (below), fitted to a Moroccan T7 rental with only a tail rack. I think it’s a seat-width thing. As we know modern pipes are huge.

There are some long-winded R60 video reviewers out there. MoskoPete is not one of them. Job done in 3:29.

Last year I tried to fit the Kriega OS-Base Universal harness (below left) for my 450MT but the one-piece grab handles/tail rack got in the way. I could have swapped in an aftermarket CNC tail rack (and lost the handy handles), or cut a hole in the harness for the alloy handle to pass through, before rebolting.
I liked the idea of being able to lash anything to the harness, not just Kriega’s OS bags, but again, their fitted bags seem to sit high, effectively resting on the side of the seat (below right) to limit swinging about in the rack-free void below. This is the weak spot of the rackless idea on monoshockers: the side panels become a necessary but over-high support point.
For me the ethos has long been as low and forward as possible – or ‘AL&FAP if you’re in a hurry. These set ups may save rack weight, but are higher and further back than ideal. With minimal loads it’s not critical, but it’s not great for CoG and bike control, especially weaving around off road, picking up or when getting out of shape.

This is where panniers should sit when not two-up.

I returned the Kriega harness and went with the usual tailpack-sat-on-a-tailpack, plus my novel and as yet unrecognised 3P idea, as well as small tankside bags on radiator crash bars (left). Baggage ends up all over the bike which is handy for daytime access and organisation, but a bit of a faff to bring it all in overnight (if necessary), plus a messy look.

Up at 3200 metres on the High Atlas Traverse

This time I wanted to try everything in one place. I could see the R60s might not sit well on my bike but I liked the bag shape more than the q/d feature. The R60’s ‘short sock’ shape potentially puts loads in the right place. Heavy or rarely used Items like tools and tubes can go it the bag’s ‘toe’; light stuff up top with all the rest in between.

I test mounted the unjoined Alpines with zip ties; holes pre-cut into the CURV-plate make this easy. After seeing that it could all fit very well, I removed the bags and sawed off the rear parts of the plate and EVA pad, making two separate panniers. I then taped and zip-tied the trimmed board and foam (below left) and re-attached each 1.25-kilo bag using the much shortened strap to the front of the pillion peg hanger and at three more points along the upper edge of the board with reusable TPU RovaFlex SoftTies (below right) which adorn just about all of my outdoor gear.

By chance, the bag’s lowest point also rested on the Serow’s unfolded pillion peg, additionally supporting heavy weights positioned in that area, reviving my unsung 3P idea mentioned above and effectively giving up to five contact points per side.

The 50-mil OTT-straps anchored themselves through a gap in my tail rack (left) to pull the bags close in against the rack. There was no need to run an additional strap around the whole bag and rack to hold it in, as Adv Spec suggest with their Magadans.
As it’s set up now, the seat can be removed as normal, the side panel can be accessed by undoing the pillion strap and lifting each bag. For insecure overnight parkings, I just fill a light 70-litre sack with what I need for the night.

All in all, the trimmed R60s could not have fitted better: secure, low, forward and as light as you’ll get for the volume and durability.
In Morocco a couple of tumbles didn’t affect the bags, though we didn’t have any pelting rain to test the waterproofing. On the road load volumes vary from day to day depending on what you’re wearing an so on. So the only complaint I have was that it was hard to cinch down the 50-mm male metal anchor buckle to pull the top down tightly. The strap was jammed too tight. It was more easily done on the upper part of the strap which is less intuitive for a good yank. Other than that, the OTT strap and two clips per side made things easily to access during the day. You soon learn to pack a day-access bag on one side so the other can be left till the evening. Everything in several pouches or bags shoved down inside easily, using all the space.
Once I get the Serow sorted, I’m looking forward to taking out the R60 for another run.

Yamaha Serow ready for the High Atlas Traverse

Serow index page

It didn’t take much, but my 250 Serow Touring is ready to wheel into a van and head down to Morocco for a recce of the High Atlas Traverse (left).
The H.A.T is a new route I’ve cooked up to parallel our very popular, coast-to-coast Trans Morocco Trail. When the H.A.T map and tracklogs are up, they’ll be hosted on the same TMT website.

Following the Atlas watershed over the highest motorable peaks and passes for 900km, the H.A.T will probably become harder than the TMT. With elevations exceeding 12,000′, we’re not certain every planned track will be passable, but that’s why they call it a recce. Whatever happens, my lithe, low-saddled Serow ought to be ideal for the task, joined by Simon on his TTR 333 and Bob on a brand new KTM 390 Enduro R to add some Vit C to the photos.
I’ll be posting the odd photo on the TMT Insta page and maybe elswhere. If it all pans out, the route will be online to download for free by the New Year.