Tubeless motorcycle wheel conversion

Started 2008. Latest update: January 2019

tltwitBefore you start reading this article, my single piece of advice after writing on this subject for over ten years: if you want to ride on tubeless tyres, choose a bike with stock tubeless wheels. Spoked or cast*, they’re designed for the job and ought not leak, unlike some of the methods below with certain Tender - 6tyre/wheel  combinations. That’s why I chose a used, 19-inch cast wheel for my XSR700 project bike (right).
If you choose to try the DIY methods, I’d suggest fitting an inexpensive TPMS (see below).

• A tubeless HUBB discussion
• Original Yamaha Tenere DIY sealing from 2008
• Cyb’s version of the DIY sealant procedure
Mounting Tubliss liners to my GS500R
• Using BARTubeless sealed rims on my Rally Raid CB500X.
• See this old discussion too
• Article on running tubeless on Advpulse – mentions mousses and tyre balls
• The short-lived Golden Tyres FTS system
• Related: changing wheel size
TPMS – long version
* I use the  term ‘cast’ genericaly to describe all one-piece wheels. Some European manufacturers use forged wheels; much stronger than cast.

Tubeless Tyres are a Good Thing. Fact.
Having run them on my desert cars, the ease of quickly plugging punctures is an Even Better Thing, even if this practice is considered a ‘get you home’ measure or outlawed in some places. All cars and most modern road bikes run tubeless tyres. To me running tubeless presents major advantages for overland travel, such as:

  • Safer: punctures deflate slowly and controllably, unlike a tube bursting and collapsing. This is the main reason to ride tubeless
  • Easier: punctures can be plugged by the roadside in less than a minute
  • Less hassle: A nail in the tyre tyrenail(especially in a groove; right) need not mean an instant flat. You can keep riding and topping up for days until convenient to fix properly
  • Cooler: with no tube/inner tyre friction, TL tyres run cooler and so last longer (see this vid)
  • Lighter: less unsprung weight – where it counts
  • No need for bulky tubes or even tyre levers, but should you have a problem, a tube can be fitted
  • Many tubed rims have the requisite safety lip (see below), though not always on the front wheel.

82~up-creekNot all bikes come with tubeless wheels but my overarching motivation for converting such bikes to tubeless was to avoid a scenario as pictured left: lost and alone up a creek in the Sahara in 1982. It happened again on a Dakar trip a few years later when I’d been plagued with punctures. If you ride alone in the remote areas you want to avoid inner tube repairs; they’re never easy, especially if you’re stressed by other issues like heat, insects, sand storms or marauding bandits. Tyres have got a lot better since then of course. On a recent trip in Algeria; 12 bikes x 2 weeks x 2000km = no flats.
If you can’t do a tubeless roadside repair, chances are your tyre or wheel are well and truly buggered. I’ve had trips where I’ve crossed borders on two flat tyres for want of an unobtainable tube. With tubeless all I need is a pump and a handful of plugs, spike tool and vulcanising solution – all widely used in the developing countries which comprise the Adventure Motorcycling Zone.

Way back in 2008 I bought the new XT660Z Tenere for a research trip in Morocco. I asked on Horizons if sealing the well of the spoked rims (left) was a good idea. The reason you can’t just remove the inner tube from a spoked rim is that air would slowly leak out where the spokes come through time rim.
The discussion concluded it was do-able and had been done. I like to experiment with new ways of doing things, so I went ahead.
Full DIY XT660Z article here.

Some Flat Earth types who have a lot to say on motorcycle forums still vehemently proclaim that sealing a spoked rim to run tubeless can’t be done. The fact that they’re clearly wrong doesn’t help shake this devoutly held belief.
I’ve yet to read any direct experience, even second or third hand, but some nevertheless claim it’s lethal. When actual reasons are given, the possibility of a tyre coming off the rim at high speed is cited (or perhaps the sealant unpeeling). 
But were that possible, how is it any different from a tubed blow-out in the same circumstances?
It isn’t.
The difference is a tubeless tyre deflates very slowly, because the air can only escape around the [typical] nail pushed through the tyre carcass (or even more slowly through poorly sealed spoke nipples or a bad rim seal). When the same happens to an inner tube, pressure can be lost almost instantly as the tube collapses with supposedly dangerous consequences
. Sounds lethal and bikes being bikes, I’m sure it can be, but even in all my years of tubed riding I’ve never crashed a bike as a result of a tube puncture (others have).
It’s also possible the DIY element puts some off, but to me DIY has always been a part of what’s now called ‘adventure motorcycling’, long before you could outfit an overland bike from an online calalogue.
Think about it. What’s the worst that can happen compared to an inner tube blowing out on a 100mph bend on Kilimanjaro? After a DIY conversion you may get an annoying slow leak from an imperfect seal which, if unmonitored, may lead to pressures dropping low enough to cause rim damage on a rocky trail or a highway pothole. And when the rim gets dinged you lose the tubeless seal until that dent is knocked back out. I know because this all happened to me following my DIY conversion in the Tenere.
Meddling with tyres is understandably seen as a risky practice, but how many of us have ridden long highway miles on ‘road-legal’ knobblies like Michelin Deserts or MT21s and have actually felt safe on fast, busy, wet roads? It’s not something I like to do anymore because I suspect emergency braking on such tyres could have much more lethal consequences than sealing spoked rims to run tubeless tyres.

tpms4You can now buy a TPMS for your motorcycle for just £35 on ebay. A tyre pressure management system is composed of two valve caps with sensors communicating wirelessly with a display mounted on the bars and wired to the battery. Result: real-time tyre pressure monitoring. Many people find that DIY or other conversions like Tubliss and in my case, BARTubeless lose pressure, even when not run at low psi where the tyre could conceivably ‘burp’ out some air on a bump. This is one gadget I wish I’d had on my Tenere in 2007, if not all my desert bikes over the years. Read the long version.

Triumph-Tiger-Explorer-XC-wheelAs adventure motorcycling evolves, more and more flagship models are running ‘adventure-look’ spoked wheels with a 21-inch on the front but designed to GSArimrun tubeless. (The Africa Twin is a baffling exception.) Manufacturers do this because spoked wheels are perceived to be a lighter and a signifier of ‘off-road adventure’. On a CRF450R motocrosser, sure; on a quarter-ton Adv battleship? I don’t think so. Give me a do-it-all 19-inch cast front wheel any day.

Spoked tubeless wheels
because of leakage through non-airtight spoke nipples, making a spoked tubeless wheel rim is complicated and expensive. Bikes which run them stock include the BMW 1200GS, Aprilla Caponord, V-Stroms, Yamaha XT1200Z, KTM V-twins, Triumph Tigers and Explorers (above left) xadv - 5and now 1200 Scramblers. Even Honda’s oddball X-ADV scooter (right) has small spoked TL wheels. There’s a partial list here.
The big picture below of a 2005 f850gswheelCaponard shows the two main ways of spoking a tubeless wheel. On the rear: BMW-style ‘outboard’ spokes on a flange. The front uses a less well triangulated ‘inboard flange’.
Note that such wheels – now also on the latest BMW 750/850GS twins (left) – are often heavier than same-sized cast wheels. Some weight is saved by not using inner tubes but additional unsprung weight on risunrimsany wheel is the last place you want it as it takes more power to get that mass turning, more brakes to slow it and better suspension to control it. You could buy rims for those bikes to fit on your and I bet it would costs hundreds. Branded or otherwise, it’s hard to find  less expensive spoked TL rims off the shelf. The only ones I’ve found are on Ali Baba or on the left: Chinese Risun outboard tubeless rims in 17 and 18 inches and only $60 a shot. Problem is, you have to order 200 plus units.


Otherwise, tubeless rims are more commonly solid cast wheels and also have a lip (see image left) to locate and help seal the tyre bead securely on the rim. This lip is also considered a safety feature which stops the tyre coming off the rim should it deflate drastically on the move.
But it also makes removing and mounting the tyre without bead-breaking tools difficult. It varies from bike to bike and tyre to tyre. Certainly Yamaha XTs have long had such safety rims on the rear wheel, even though the bikes always came with tubed tyres. Out of interest, this disproves another urban myth: you can only stick a tube in a TL rim to ‘get you home’ because it will eventually 87tenererub on that lip and explode with terrible consequences. Well clearly not on a stock tubed Tenere with a lipped DID rim on the rear since the mid-1980s (left). I know because I remember putting that bike on a crate with the rear tyre removed, sticking it in gear and ‘hand-lathing’ off that safety lip so that I’d not get stuck in the desert trying to break the bead to fix a puncture; and as importantly remounting it properly with – back then – just a bicycle pump. All this faffing is why we like tubeless.

tlrimsBut to convert the spoked rims to tubeless this lip is actually a good thing and, just as 20 years earlier, my 2008 Tenere had them on the back wheel. The front rim was normal which is a risk when converting to tubeless. But can it be any worse than a tubed tyre puncturing? Tubed tyres deflate faster and therefor more dangerously than tubeless tyres, so even without the safety lips or humps on the front, with tubeless you’re already ahead. But, as I found, you can get slow leakage along the seal.
Pictured left: the top rim has no sealing lip; the lower rim does. Note also the angle of the tyre bead interface surface; the lower rim with the lip is flat which helps make a better seal. The upper lipless rim is curved and lipless – making it easier to change by hand. I think my 2008 bmwTLpageTenere sealing problems where because the rear wheel was like the lower rim – CmberAnglegood for tubeless. The 21-inch front was like the upper rim; less good seal. This interesting and regularly updated page by R. Fleischer gets right down on motorcycle rim profiles. So does this GoldWing page in comparison to car tyres and the clearly different M3-17 - 9forces involved. It’s something to consider when blithely converting rims designed for tubes tyres to run tubeless. Inspect your rim profile closely. In 2017 when I considered sticking Outex tape (see below) on my WR250R to seal the rims, I saw both stock rims lacked that lip.
Yes the lip can make breaking and remounting the bead when removing the tyre by the roadside more difficult (get a passing car to drive over the tyre), but the whole point of tubeless is you don’t need to do this until you’re replacing a tyre. Unlike punctures; usually that is not done by the roadside out of the blue.


For some reason tubeless 21-inchers have a bad reputation with holding their air, and outfits like Woody’s in the US who convert other spoked rims sizes, don’t do 21s last time I looked. Could it be the relatively narrow tyre profile of a 21-incher in relation to its height (for the same average tyre carcass thickness) allow it to ‘cave in’ under hits where a wider front – typically a 19-er – will take a hit ‘flat’ and maintain the seal? Is that why my 21″ Tenere front failed? And is this why the old BMW F800GS had tubes (front 21″) while the same era ‘650‘ and ‘700‘ versions I used in Morocco had 19″ tubeless on the front? Probably not.
I spotted an ancient Honda XLM the other day which reminded me that 21-inch tubeless fronts did exist way back in the 1980s. I ran with one on my first Sahara tour (left, 1988) and recall no tyre problems, but I don’t recall if the owner fitted tubes for the tour.
Would a Tubliss liner work better on the front? I think so and that, along with keeping tabs on tyre pressures, is why my 2008 DIY sealing was possibly not good enough. Could the Slime have undermined the mastic’s seal? I don’t scram21think so. Would a lipped stock tubeless rim off an old XLM work better? Must have done if we were riding
tubeless on sand back then. I tried 19-inch Tubliss liners in 2012 and t
hey’re now sold in 21-inch

In late 2018 Triumph launched the Scrambler 1200, a bike with a tubeless 21-inch front wheel (left). Clearly they must feel confident it will work, potentially even on the dirt at lower pressures.

Ways of DIY sealing spoked rims

tyre-tlvalvesTo run tubeless tyres on a bike with spoked rims you need to seal the point where the spokes screw into the rims through the nipples. Then you also need to fit a tubeless valve (right); that at least is the easy bit.

Systems like the US-made Tubliss liner (below) are made for dirt bikes running low-psi. They are  not approved for highway use in the US by the manufacturer, mostly probably due to homologation issues rather than safety. But I know people who’ve run Tubliss for years on the road with no problems.


tubliss-sectionTubliss and similar work by fitting an inner tube-like ‘core’  (‘HPC’) which inflates up to 100 psi to push and seal the bead of the tyre firmly against the rim and so sealing off the tyre’s air chamber from the spoke nipples where leakage occurs – the key to converting wire wheels to tubeless. The core is a thick, plastic highly pressurised non-elastic tube, but it’s kept away from the tyre sidewall or tread where punctures come through.

303I bought a pair and fitted them to my GS500R project bike running custom 19″ spoked rims. Click the link. Short version: lube the possibly hard-to-fit core with 303 Protectant (right: £15 a pint; same as Armor All in the US). It’s much slippier and longer-lasting than soapy water which is good for the HPC inside. Then run Slime, Stans or similar to ensure sealing (about the same price as 303 but you can MYO). Me, I wasn’t tubeless-slimerconvinced they’re suited to long-range overlanding compared to other simpler systems because of the need to maintain the very high 100-psi pressures in the red HPC using humble mini-compressors. You also need to drill another hole in the rim for the HPC valve/rim lock; no one likes doing that.
Long Tubliss thread on advrider; mostly dual-sporters. Some get on with it, some don’t.

tlokkThe Swedish T-Lock system is very similar as far as I can tell: the same non-elastic core (blue, left) presses the tyre bead against the rim with very high pressure (110psi) to seal the tyre’s pressured chamber from the leak-prone spoke nipples.

The kit includes a separate rim band (green) and, if I understand correctly, the blue tube utilises the rim’s valve hole. This means that unlike Tubliss with its two valves, the tyre must be filled with Slime-like sealant before tlokfinal mounting and then pressurised by spiking the tyre carcass with a needle and then letting the sealant plug that hole. This seems to imply that you set the tyre pressures once. To reduce pressure you’d have to puncture the tyre briefly, and to increase you’d have to spike-and seal again. Even more than the Tubliss, T-Locks are intended only for motocross use, as the website’s imagery implies. Clearly not at all suited to overlanding.

The Italian Alpina system left (click to enlarge and read) individually seals each spoke nipple with a rubber o-ring, and is sold for many road bikes and so must be considered road legal.
The benefits of this system (as well as the high-pressure core systems, above) is that spoke tension can be adjusted while maintaining the tubeless seal – how often do you do that on a decent rim? The permanently sealed bonding systems shown below may not work so well doing this, but as we know we’re usually talking very small turns of the nipple to adjust tension, and should a leak develop it can be re-sealed.

cbxL311x2k04An idea I tried in late 2015 on my Rally Raid CB500X was a polymer sealing from BARTubeless, also from Italy (left). A bit like the 3M sealant, but professionally applied – you need to send the wheels off to Italy. In the UK, wheel specialists Central Wheel Services near Birmingham will do two wheels for you for £300. I saw no air loss in 2000 miles, but over a couple of months there was some leakage – quite a lot in fact. More about them here and herkineotl

Beautifully forged Italian Kineo tubeless rims. For a Transalp that’ll be at least €1000 each please.

I belatedly came across Outex sealant tape in 2017 which a mate has been using on his TTR for years. As with many of these DIY methods, some get on outexwith it, some don’t as this post shows. Basically it’s a set of sticky pads for each spoke nipple, a very sticky and wide doubled-sided tape applied into the rim well with as few creases as possible. And then a thicker protective rollerrasptape over the top. Application video below; a higher-res video here. Costs from £90 to £125 in the UK which seems a lot. As mentioned, I was about to fit it to my WR, but changed my mind once I saw the profile of my rims. Take your time they say, to try and get all the air pockets out. Using an inner tube patch roller rasp (right) helps; you often get them with better puncture kits.

Another DIY suggestion uses glass sealant, being meticulous with your pre-cleaning and patient with your sealant curing – see below. Sounds similar to Cyb’s process at the top of the page.

1. Glass (windscreen) sealant (right) tl-windsealwhich you can find in any hardware store.
2. 16″ Harley inner tube on ebay. 1″ smaller that our wheels to make it tight fit.
3. Glass cleaner or oven degreaser.
4. Loads of spare time…

• Clean the wheels with the degreaser/cleaner, wash with water to make sure that any chemical is washed off. Wait for a day in dry, clean environment, blast of air if indeed, a great help.
• Apply the sealant to each spokes, wait for a day to cure, apply another layer, wait again.
• Apply sealant to the inner part of the wheel. One layer for one day, do it twice then wait until it’s completely cured.
• Cut HD inner tube to size so it covers the inner part of the wheel. Cut a hole for the valve and you’re good to go.

Have I missed any ideas? Let me know.


This entry was posted in Adventure Motorcycling Gear Reviews, AMH News, Project Bikes, Project: Yamaha Tenere XT660Z and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

32 Responses to Tubeless motorcycle wheel conversion

  1. Richard says:

    Have you guys looked at home a tubeless tire is fitted on a bicycle rim? It might sound crazy but it can be done with duct tape. And a 30mm bicycle tire needs to be inflated to 5 or 6 bar. Anybody brave enough to try it on a motorcycle rim?

  2. Hey, I know this is an old thread, but I noticed that when you are showing the bart tubless system there are several pics there and one has a tag on it that says “no safety lip, don’t run below a certain pressure” I assume that they had no quams with sealing non safety lipped wheels??

  3. tobern says:

    Has anybody tried to mix a Tubliss and an Outex system together ?
    I have put a tubliss on a 701 enduro. Working well, but deflates slowly in a week or two.
    Is it technically possible to put both together ?

    • Chris S says:

      Have you established if it is leaking from the tyre bead at the rim or through the spokes?
      You could pump Slime or similar and see where it oozes out. Slime might even just fix the leak anyway.
      If it’s the latter then Outex ought to do it although you have two holes to seal it round.

      • tobern says:

        It seems that it is the tubliss which are both leaking, coming from 7.2 bars to 4 bars after several days. Then probably causing leak by the spokes.
        It is for a long ride trip project with 30000 kms, so with many tire changes. I do not think slime would be a good idea.

  4. rob pinter says:

    I have done the windscreen sealant conversion on my XT660Z Tenere on the rear rim as it has the safety bead no issues, with the front I did the same and had a tyre rapidly deflate on the road, not nice crashing. Fitting an ultra heavy duty tube to the front reduces the risk of punctures and if you do get a puncture I have noticed that you can ride on it flat, as it feels like a run flat tyre because of the thickness of the UHD tube.
    I will be doing the rear rim sealant conversion on my new Triumph Tiger 800 as it too has the safety bead, but not on the front 21″ rim, a UHD tube will go in there.

    • Chris S says:

      Thanks for the update. Sorry to hear you crashed.
      Any idea why it deflated suddenly?
      There has long been an issue with sealing 21″s which rarely have that vital safety bead.
      I assume that’s the crux but not certain. I imagine a Tubliss liner would be more reliable.
      Mine on the same bike. self-sealed was more of a slow deflation. Maybe some tyre/rim combos work better than others.
      It’s one reason I lately favour 19-inch rims. They often come as cast T/L wheels which are good enough for the sort of dirt riding I mostly do.

      • rob pinter says:

        I had been running the windscreen sealant on the front with no issues, changing tyres over from on road to off road types as needed so I think that when I refitted the off road tyre for a trip perhaps the bead may have been damaged and did not seal properly when on the highway. However; I was applying a tyre bead sealer to the rim to technically glue the bead to the rim because I knew that the front rim does not have a safety bead.
        Perhaps the instant deflation was just a combination of using a previously fitted tyre and bad luck. Would I convert the front rim of the new Tiger 800, no because you just never know a UHD tube would be better, I will convert the rear rim yes as replacing the tube in the rear wheel is more difficult because of the safety bead.

  5. Paul Johnston says:

    Further to the bicycle comment, I use ordinary duct tape (big choice of width) on my mountain bike rims (~32mm internal width) at 16-20 psi with no problems. My children’s MTBs occasionally leak sealant (Stan’s No Tubes) at very low pressures, say 10psi when hitting rocks or landing bigger drops. Yet to have a flat with tubeless – previously I’d have 3 or 4 flats per outing, usually the kids not lifting the back wheel over sharp edges and getting ‘snake bite’ pinch flats.
    I absolutely agree with the point that the whole thing is much easier with tyres and rims designed to run tubeless, especially tyres.

  6. Brad Sanders says:

    I wonder what sort of pump could be hauled along to keep a Tubliss inner tube up to 100 psi? I use the tubliss on my singletrack bike and it works great,harder to dent rims at low psi due to the 100 psi inner tube keeping the tire jammed onto the rim tightly. I use a full size bicycle pump at home every time I air up the small tube.


    • Rupert Granville says:

      Hi there, I’ve become a fan of Tubliss. Have used them on pretty much all surfaces with no problems at all. I’ve a couple of small bicycle pumps that copes well with the 100-110psi necessary for the inner tube. Harder to find a TPG that runs up to 110psi. So much easier to use plugs than to carry and install spare tubes. Really simple to deflate and re-inflate when required. One word of caution; be careful with the tire irons pinching the liner when changing tires…

  7. bert zwart says:

    Hi Chris,
    Interesting stuff going on here.

    Regarding the diy method: could it be that the 3M stuff wasn’t working because you cleaned the rim with petrol? Afaik petrol leaves a residue.

    Pls. keep on investigating, I really like it.

    Cheers from the Low Countries,

    • Chris S says:

      Thanks Bert. Actually I would have used lighter fluid (since corrected above) or even MEK which I have in the kitchen. The problem was leakage from the tyre-rim surface on the front (non tubeless) rim. Tubeless rims really are the key.

  8. Glenn says:

    Since you have now had the opportunity to further test the BARTubless system from Italy, what is your current opinion on this system since your ride in Morocco?

    • Chris S says:

      Hi Glenn, as I added to the 500X Morocco report, it worked fine out there so I forgot to keep tabs on pressures. When I got the bike services about 2 months later the shop reported the tyres were low – didn’t say exactly, maybe down to 15-20 psi. Obviously not enough for me to notice (the rear GT was very stiff).
      With BARTubeless there is the slight problem in loss of well depth which can make hand mounting tyres difficult, but if the service was available in the UK I think I’d still use it for my next bike, if for no other reason that the DIY alternative (wire brushing, cleaning, wiping drying then sealing each spoke nipple hole, then sealing overall) would take a day – and in my case probably be less neat.
      I doubt very much the BART’d tyres leaked through the polymer. More probably from the tyre seal which may be attributable to non-tubeless rim design.


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  10. Simon says:

    Hi Chris,

    I ordered a set of Avon Trailriders for my XT660 Tenere and realised that they are tubeless. I’ve treated them as tubed and fitted them (including the tubes). Have I made a costly/dangerous mistake in your opinion? The tyres were not particularly awkward compared to tubed tyres and they sit on the rim nicely.


    • Chris S says:

      IMO, just an ordering mistake and easily done. Others may know better but I believe the only difference will be a coating or finish to the inside surface of the tubeless tyre to make it even more airtight. Running a tube type on a tubeless rim would be less good – but only because air might be slowly lost through the carcass.


      • Simon says:

        Thanks Chris. I did sprinkle some talc around the inside of the tyre to prevent any chaffing with the tube. Took a lot of pressure to get them to seat.
        I need to get both wheels balanced and will then be keen to try them out.

  11. Richard Fletcher says:

    There is a current trend toward tubeless tyres for bicycles, and similarly the “tubeless ready” rims have a different internal profile to normal rims, and the tyres are slightly different at the bead too. However with the bicycle rim all rims (except those made specifically for stuck-on tubulars) have spoke holes in the well. To make them suitable for tubeless use (be they officially “tubeless ready” or just a standard spoked rim originally intended for use with a tube), the spoke holes are sealed – but with two or three wraps of impervious tape. There are special versions available – “Stans Tubeless” tape being one such, but reinforced packing tape is a popular alternative low cost solution (and better suited to motorcyle applications as it comes in greater width to match the well width.). The tape is used in place of any type of flexible silicon sealer. After fitting the tyre a small amount of liquid sealant (similar to slime I guess) is introduced via the valve (core out). This helps seal the tyre bead to the rim, plug any small gaps between sealing tape and rim, the valve and the rim, and of course seal punctures “on the go”, that being the point of tubeless bicycle tyres. The main point of the post is to point out the use of tape to seal the rims as opposed to flexible sealant. Bicycle tyres typically run at >5 bar in tubeless configuration so at more than double the pressure of a motorcycle tyre. I’m wondering, therefore, whether taping a rim (in combination with slime-type sealant for many minor leaks and on-the-go repairs) would be a viable alternative – or if there are other factors that would make it undesirable? I’ve nothing to experiment on myself, but if others are feeling brave…. :-)

    • Chris S says:

      Never knew- or thought of the tape idea. I would imaging the Slime might get under it and unstick it. I see Stans only comes in 1 inch wide only but I wonder if Tyvek (used to repair packrafts so clearly airtight) would work. That comes in 50mm.
      Right now I am getting a pair of Excels for my CB-X which have been ‘professionally sealed’ by some place in Italy. Remains to be seen what that is, but I assume it’s what I did, but better – or maybe a heat shrunk tape band? Will know in a few weeks.

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  14. Mark W says:

    Did you ever try again with the 21″ homebrew tubeless setup? I have done the conversion to supermoto wheels with great success (though they have safety lip) and planned to do the same to my 1.85″ wide DID 21″ rim, thinking with a TPMS setup I would be covered… but the tire burping air on a big hit is a real concern. Would be nice to know if you had full pressure (at least 25psi) when you had the telltale slime escape, or if it had leaked down and that is why it burped.

    • Chris S says:

      Hi Mark, not had a 21 since the Tenere as I am a bit of a do-it-all 19″ convert at the moment, though a mate is running a home made set up on his TTR for a year or two and has had no probs (may have safety lip).
      I run road pressures on regular desert tracks to limit burping and tube flats. Or I was supposed to. My conclusion was the lack of a safety lip on the front enabled burping, but that was not helped by me failing to monitor tyre pressures on the new set up so the low-psi tyre burped more readily until it damaged the rim on that Col. Next time I will try whatever my TTR mate has done.

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